Corsica
The L'Île de Beauté as it is known and it is immediately apparent why it is called the island of beauty when you first step foot on this stunning Mediterranean environmental work of art.
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| Bonifaccio |
The mountains soar, the cliffs drop into deep blue waters, the seasons make themselves identifiable with autumn hues, wild spring flowers, winter wonder and summer, the long languid days of Corsican summers. From top to bottom it is a natural wonderment, from east to west diverse to the extreme.
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| Weather and light |
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| Storms are furious but leave the land green and luscious |
On the west lies Pianna’s red clay mountains that are so surreal it feels like a movie set, the east’s beaches of exquisite white sand, Cape Corse with it’s low lying shrub, wild flowers, lizards darting every which way and stunning blue sea, Bonifaccio a sight to behold and inexplicably stunning with shear rock faces dropping into that water set against the backdrop of the sky. Corsica is like a country in an island, similar to New Zealand in that respect however smaller than NZ.
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| Bonifaccio, stunning is an understatement |
Corsicans are fiercely proud of their history and heritage and are Corsicans first and foremost, French second. Signposts are still in the dual dialect of Corsican and French. Wine production is on a vast scale and for mainly local consumption of such superb quality it’s clearly evident these people know how to live life very well. The hams and cheeses rich with the flavour of the land.
There is a walk in Corsica that we have done oh so many times but just keep going back to it. A day walk of only about 4 hours in total to Cape Corse, which is so supremely pretty, it makes you feel happy being alive and able to move. No amount of money could ever replace the feeling of walking and observing the natural beauty, the cows that always sit on the soft hey on one of the beaches the track traverses, the lizards every every everywhere, the swim in the waters just north of Macinaggio at the end, bone wary and enjoying a local Colomba (my personal favourite with a slightly lemon tang) and Pietra (chestnut) beers which signify the artesian brews and are like no others in taste.
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| Lovely cow on the beach in Cape Corse |
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| Cape Corse - wild flowers and sea |
On our most recent visit to Corsica we stayed in Maison Borghetti Set in the beautiful quiet hill town of Talasani, northeastern Corsica, Maison Borghetti is simple and beautiful, welcoming and heart warming. Patrick and Brian (Kika the dog) have created a place of tranquillity, which feels like staying with family (family on a good day that is!). We are light sleepers but had to set our alarms to wake in the mornings, we seemed to slump into bed and just sleep. Heaven.
The rooms - we had Chambre Vincent Lafon with a beautiful claw foot bath and separate shower, candles everywhere and an open fire in the winter - are decorated with the panache of Patrick who has thought out every corner and the eclectic antiques work together so well, a very gifted man as he does the relief / fresco paint work on the walls and ceilings as well as the cooking.
Which brings me on to the cooking....breakfasts were perfect, good coffee (or tea I'm sure), fresh breads and home made preserves, quality ham and cheeses, home made berry compote with cereal and home made yoghurt made for the best start to the day. The evening meals hosted by Patrick and Brian were again superb. Each night was nothing short of fabulous. Hosting 4 nights per week in the summer months, meals are taken communally for those who choose this option (and an option I'd highly recommend). The food is great, fresh, light, local with the most sublime desserts (and lots of food - for those who want more there will never be a shortage here) all cooked by Patrick with love, care and skill. Presented family style so you can help yourselves but eaten together at a large table. A place for guests and hosts to mingle and chat. For the nights that the kitchen is closed the food at the local restaurants is good. I would particularly recommend the pizza restaurant at Moriani Plage which is an easy drive away.
The location of Maison Borghetti is awesome. You can go north, south, west - there's many options for great day trips. Beautiful beaches are within close reach. Patrick and Brian have a good set of maps and will give recommendations of where to go which have so far been spot on for us.
And value???....ummmmm lets just say it's incredible value. The dinner evenings were 27.5E pp including aperitif, wine, food, digestive, coffee...yes you get my drift. To fully appreciate Maison Borghetti’s trance you should give yourself a treat and stay long enough to enable the state of complete relaxation to seep into your soul.
Maison Borghetti is a charmer. Thank you Patrick and Brian, we will leave with warmth our hearts and the feeling of the world being a better place because of you in it and Corsica has stolen my heart each time I have been.
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| Maison Borghetti...what a charmer you are! |
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| The local beach at Morani Plage .... good restaurants. |
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| The gorgeous village of Talasani |
