Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen

I had been pining to dine at Kiin Kiin for around 5 years.  We had arranged a trip in April 2010 but due to the Europe ash cloud and subsequent travel disruptions we had to cancel the trip 2 days prior to our departure.

It’s taken me that long to get back to Copenhagen.  I didn’t have to try a fruitless attempt at booking Noma or going on their extensive waiting list hoping for a cancellation (not that I wouldn’t love Noma of course!), Kiin Kiin was the place for us.

Having travelled numerous times to Thailand over the years I have a decent knowledge of the cuisine.   I have been cooking Thai at home for over two decades.  It’s one of my favourite food genres. The idea of Kiin Kiin, with it’s reputation for pretty much the best the world has to offer in modern Thai cuisine was beguiling.

The evening starts as it does for every guest, downstairs being served a variety of Kiin Kiin’s idea of Thai ‘street food’ (I never saw street food like this in Thailand!). 

Each little morsel was beautiful in balance and texture.  I do think it was a pity not to be seated at the table from outset though. After about 45 minutes we were led to our upstairs table to begin the tasting menu.  Upstairs is far more comfortable and I would have enjoyed the downstairs experience more if I was sitting at my lovely table rather than on an uncomfortable low Asian style sofa which always has one squirming.  I was glad I didn’t wear my short dress and heals as it would have been most indelicate trying to position oneself ‘just so’ in order to look elegant whilst covering any unsightly bits one gets at a certain age!

That small quibble aside (and the only quibble) every single dish from the first street food of deep fried lotus root to the final course of coconut ice cream with salted caramel, salted coconut and banana cake were sublime.

I was concerned that Kiin Kiin would dumb down the tastes.  I was worried the balance would be too subtle and the “Thainess” would be knocked out of the dishes in an effort by the chefs to appeal to western tastes. 

Whilst there was possibly more subtlety than some true Thai dishes this was a heightening taste experience for me.  Every taste, every nuisance of every spice, the balance of salty sour sweet and hot perfectly harmonious.   Textures were evident and precise and the contrasting temperatures of in particular the red curry with lobster dish were sensational.  This particular dish was the standout for me.  Those contrasts had my mouth tingling from cold, hot, sweet, salt and sour in such a divine way it was intoxicating.   

Kiin Kiin didn’t let me down.  I was happy to wait those 5 1/2 years in order to appreciate this restaurant.  Hats off to the chefs, one of which we spoke with and is opening a restaurant down the road in Abu Dhabi (in Emirates Palace hotel).  I admire a chef who can keep the essence of traditional food and highlighting it with technique using texture and temperature to enhance the dishes from their merely delicious beginnings to sublimity.  The essence of true Thai remains.  A remarkable feat.   The addition of elements from neighbouring Asian countries (Japan and China specifically) only served to enhance certain dishes.  Very intelligent cooking indeed.

Cold pandan leaf and lemon grass tea to begin

Deep fried lotus root

Cashew nut macarons 

Wasabi dipping paste (served with the cashew nut)

Wafer wrapped dried shrimp, peanuts, coriander, betel leaf, spicy dressing reminiscent of the betel wrapped street food traditionally served in Thailand but given a textural bump with the wafer.

Pandan leaf and chicken hearts - Kiin Kiin style

Egg custard (reminiscent of Thai style Ho Mok) served with miso

Crisp chicken skin with carrot ice-cream and corn dust

Chinese style sausage with...I think yam?  I'm doing this all from memory so not sure but delicious anyway.  

Bbq mackeral with 'traditional' Thai salad - Kiin Kiin style.  The top is a pandan candy floss which melts when the dressing is poured into the dish.  

The waiter making the dressing fresh at the table for the mackerel salad

After the dressing is poured in then topping melts into the dish creating a smack in the mouth of salty sweet hot and that delicious coal grilled mackerel being the highlight.

Lobster awaiting it's red curry

A place where dry ice absolutely works theatrics aside.  The utter cold and crunch of the freeze dried red curry made this dish a knock out and my favourite of the night.

Rare cooked beef with thai style dressing (thai beef salad) served with corn puree, corn paper, corn powder, baby corn and a stunning bone marrow prik nam pla.  I could have eaten 4 times the amount of that nam pla, it was sensational.

And finally...to share for two on a beautiful wooden plate.  Coconut ice cream, salted coconut, salted caramel and banana cake.  A salty sweet dessert delight.  YUM!  Very happy tum!!