Sunday 28 January 2018

Duck breast, Goan spice paste, spiced panna cotta and fresh lentil fennel salad

This recipe is one I've combined out of a couple of different Goan recipes using Vineet Bhatia as my guide.   I've done many times but usually with fish.  This time with duck breast and it was delicious.  

The duck held it's own with this gorgeous spicy paste which contains a huge array of ingredients but comes together beautifully (the ingredient list includes black cardamon, kashmiri chilli, black pepper, cumin, coriander, cloves, garlic, ginger, tomato ketchup (yes), vinegar, star anise......

The panna cotta is made with coconut milk infused with lemon grass, kaffir lime leaf, kashmiri chilli, ginger, garlic, curry leaves and salt.  It creates a lovely subtle coconut sauce when you take each bite. The panna cotta should be just set, not too firm and this dish MUST be served on a room temperature (not heated) plate otherwise the panna cotta will melt before it's ready to eat.

Lentil salad is a fresh lively accompaniment.  The lentils are soaked overnight and served raw.  I've used green lentils this time as that is what I can get here.  I've usually used red in the past, either way it makes very little difference to the taste.  Shaved fennel and green peas worked well dressed simply with lemon juice.  

The addition of a rhubarb chutney added a hint of sweet sour that worked particularly well with the duck, not necessary with fish.  Coriander is a good finishing touch but absolutely not available this time of year here (or any time of year in honesty).  I plan to grow my own when things warm up a bit.



Quail

The little quail here are always sold with their heads on.  It's so we can see what breed it is or some such.  Fine by me, I quite like taking off the heads.  I'm a bit weird that way but it's not so great in the summer having things like quail and chicken heads sitting in the rubbish waiting for collection!  Best popping them in the freezer for a few days during the hot months.

Anyway I served this particular quail with a very scrummy Jun Tanaka recipe I've made before.  Savoy cabbage pesto and creamed savoy cabbage.  I stuffed the quail with a mixture of onion, garlic, sage, cepes and prunes.  I browned them well and finished in the oven for about 18 minutes.  They were beautifully moist.  The stuffing protects the breast from overcooking while the legs do their thing.  

Savoy cabbage pesto might sound strange but it's really delicious.  By blanching the leaves first you keep the green and it's then simply blended with roasted walnuts and parmesan.  A touch of water to loosen it, a little garlic and salt.  Yum.  Sorry little quails but you do taste delicious.




Wednesday 24 January 2018

Andy's Post - Phillipe, the birds, the bees and the fish

Today was an interesting day. First off, I went with Phillipe our neighbour to the Sanchez’s car dealership as part of getting the Porsche registered and fully legal in France. The car arrived from Dubai with a flat battery resulting in all the computers needing to have their codes cleared. M. Sanchez apparently has a Porsche 911 so of course he has the necessary tools to reconfigure the computers. However, first off, I need to replace the tyres (I knew this before leaving Dubai, but A, they are cheaper here. B, you can buy tyres here that suit the climate) The bottom line is I have tyres on order and once they are fitted the computers will be reset.

Ok that is a bit boring but who cares this is my story!!

This afternoon I was out by the front gate trying to work out how to landscape the entrance when I heard Phillipe say hi from his upper floor window. Françoise his wife had binoculars pressed to her face glancing towards the river Rognon, I should say lake Rognon as its banks have been breached and the farm land beyond flooded. They were both very excited by a flock of African migratory birds, I think Herons, gathered on the new shoreline. Even from my position about 1500 meters away these white birds are large! At a guess ,over a meter tall. Clearly, Françoise and Phillipe are thrilled by the presence of these birds.

A short while later Phillipe arrived at the front door having brought our “poubelle” rubbish bin in after collection and asked if I would like to accompany him down the road for a walk. With Bino’s in hand I assumed we were going for a closer look at the Herons.
It turned out that he had been asked to do something for the neighbour below us. They are not in residence and could not attend to their house after the rains.
I had no inkling about this place 300 meters away at the end of the road that runs past our maison down to the right. It has been rendered with a shitty stucco plaster and painted ochre (I’m being kind here). Nat and I had both thought it had been constructed in the 80’s with some degree of bad taste. There are 6 or 7 buildings starting with what was once a communal laundry house, (apparently there are two in the village I’m not sure at this point were the other is) The laundry is about 5 meters by 4 meters and contains a “tub” about 2/3’s the size and 50 cm deep. This place has been here for hundreds of years. It is such a shame about the rendering as the original stone work visible around the back of the house is a beautiful. 

The original building was a Moulin used for milling maize. The defunct water wheel has been removed by the current owner (much to the disgust of Phillipe who has a profound respect for the local history). Beyond were the wheel once stood is a large pond covering about 1000 square meters. The river runs down into it from the forest. The overflow from the pond runs through the narrow gap created by the absent wheel down to the Rognon. The pond is full of carp. I could see dozens of small fingerlings in the murky water swimming amongst larger fish some easily up to 70 + cm in length. The reason for Phillipe’s visit it seems, was to clear debris from a grill at the downstream end of the pond.

On the walk back home, we passed a builder who had suddenly appeared and was busy repairing the roof of the building next to the laundry. After a brief chat, Phillipe introduced me as his friend, the guy who lives in the first house up the road and drives a Porsche.
At the top of the road just outside our maison Phillipe told me that the road/ track that veered away to our right had been in use since Roman times, used as an access the river. It just happens to also align with a migratory route of bees.

He told me he has some photos to show me  of the Castle that used to exist on the grounds of the Chateau and of a subterranean tunnel that ran between the two. I look forward to that as I am intrigued by the history of this tiny village that has existed in some form or other for over a thousand years.

To top it off we were visited by 3 pairs of Dassault Rafale from Saint Dizier on a low level NavEx (less than 500 ft agl at 420 knots). Nothing unusual in that except that due to a clear visibility and a nice mid-level cloud cover we could see them easily for a change. They passed within 500 meters of us in a 90-degree left bank having crossed the “Lake” essentially following the line of the old Roman road past just to the north of our maison over the old Moulin heading back to Saint Dizier. A stirring sight and an unforgettable sound.



Friday 12 January 2018

Tandoori chicken.......

Impossible to say why this was so damn good.  I used a recipe.  It wasn't strictly tandoori flavour but it was the best indian chicken we've had.  Ever.  (excluding Sandra's tandoori chicken and I STILL cannot recreate that).  

For my note to self.  I used this recipe.  A very very sound one as it turns out.  But (and as I said, note to self)..... I added 1/2 tsp turmeric not a full tsp, I added Adele's garam masala not the one from Dubai, I added 1/2 tsp of sweet paprika not 1 tbsp and 2 heaped tsps of Kashmiri chilli (instead of 1 tsp cayenne pepper).  

Lemon juice yes, yogurt yeap (full fat) and I skinned the chicken.  It was a glorious chook (cooked the skin separately for another time).  These are notes to myself and so Timmy Joey Wag and Juanitz  if you're reading this and think I've lost the plot I haven't. This is from me to me.  

Served simply with a mint raita and spiced apricot chutney (tamarind would be the best but apricot works very well).  Salad of lettuce and tomato.  Et voila. 




Finishing off to get the juice from the pan






Monday 1 January 2018

Family reunion for NYE

 See if you can spot the 2 who just won't stay in one place!







NYE Siggie Main

Indian spiced duck breast, coconut kdichi, spiced foie gras, sauce and spiced apricot chutney.

The second time we’ve had this scrumptious dish.  The first being Christmas.  Ummmm…. Yummmmm.

BUT this time I cooked the foie gras from frozen in the hot pan, thinking it’d give it more time before it melted.  Nah, better to cook it from the fridge so that it goes super uncious.  I dusted with spice after cooking this time which was better though but I missed out the Kashmiri chilli and fleur de sel which I forgot about (not in the Vineet Bhatia recipe but added last time).  So I added it at the table.  Essential 2 ingredients.  Kashmiri chilli gives such a lovely warm fruity kick.  It’s a gorgeous chilli especially it seems, from the supplier I’ve found here in France.

AND finally, last time Andy did the sauce.  It was better.  It had all sorts - from the duck pan juices and the foie gras pan scrapings to port to sherry vinegar to pernod.  Difficult for him to repeat but next time we do this dish I’ll get him to try.  I used an indian reduction I’d made previously which was very good, but not as good.  Served with a 2008 Margaux.  From our cave.  As you do.


Damn fine New Years Eve main course.






NYE Siggie Entrée

Cured salmon (bought admittedly and it was damn good cured gravlax too, with dill), on blini (home made) and crème fraiche.   A touch of grated lemon zest at the end.  Divine.  Served with a 2012 Chablis Grand Cru we’d bought in Chablis.

Recipe for the blini so I don’t forget because they were very good and very made up on the spot, experimenting with sourdough starter and eggless:

100gms of sourdough starter
50 gms or so of T45 farine blu
50 gms or so of tepid milk
½ sachet yeast
½ sachet baking powder
2 tsp sugar
salt.

Use a stab blender to give it a really good mix so that the gluten develops and they don’t fall apart without the egg. 

I made these early in the day and quickly heated up the base in a hot pan just before serving.  Full fat crème fraiche is best (of course).