Friday 29 April 2011

El Celler de Can Roca - Girona Magic

 Dined 05 April 2011

On arrival at El Celler de Can Roca you can't help but be in a happy head space (other than the fact you're about to have an exquisite dining experience of course!!). The entrance, the architecture of old and new, the landscaping of the courtyard area. It's visually appealing and sets the tone for the meal to follow.


Exterior




We opted for the tasting menu and a bottle of white wine which we allowed the sommelier to select (and ended out costing a mere 20-25 Euros - now THAT doesn't happen too many places outside Spain).

The complementary cava was poured and the amuse bouche commenced - the first of which being the olive tree .... caramelised olives with an anchovy filling hanging from the branches. Salty and sweet, fun to eat an exquisite combination.



Olive Tree


The melon balls to follow were an heady mix of flavour and sensation.  To be picked up and popped whole into one's mouth - an explosion of melon.


Molecular Melon


 Then came the tempura anchovy bones and the crackers sitting on rock with the most sublime salty sweet filling the full effect took a moment or two to hit the mouth.


Anchovy amuse


Crackers - sublime


 The fish with semi popped corn was sweet and textural and the final amuse of truffle brioche served with a separate broth exploded in the mouth with pure truffle hedonistic deliciousness. I'd recommend the broth first not second as advised as this allows you to cleanse your palate then savour the truffle.


Fish with corn


Truffle brioche
On to the menu. Oyster with a cava liquor and apple ginger and spices - I found the oyster to be tasteless however the oyster leaf is what left the impression - more oyster tasting than the mollusk itself. I was disappointed with the actual oyster. 


Oyster with a cava liquor and that amazing oyster leaf

The artichoke, foie gras and truffle oil with shaved truffles were next. The shaved truffles, to be expected at this time of year, were a little tasteless and I found this whole dish very rich and could not eat much more than a bite or 2. However the flavours of the truffled oil were rich and earthy in true truffle style.


Artichoke, foie gras, truffle oil and shaved truffle

The sole with five sauces to represent the Mediterranean was beautifully cooked with superb balance in each sauce. A lovely light dish with intense flavours.  The outstanding sauce is pictured second from bottom and is made from a local citrus fruit.  Fresh, acidic, sweet, balanced and with the fish was totally incredible.


Sole with five sauces to represent the Mediterranean

The cod with potato gnocchi - eech this one didn't appeal to me at all. I found the cod pot au feu lacking flavour and the macaroni cake heavy. In fact this whole dish was not worth filling up on so I left almost all of it in order to enjoy dessert.  I imagine this is a dish that would evoke nostalgia and childhood memories from a  traditional dish updated and taken to a new level - it was indeed beautifully constructed on the plate however too heavy for me.  Not having Spanish culinary memories to draw upon I can only comment as it tasted.




The Iberian suckling pig with melon was a glorious visual treat and superb to eat. Perfect skin, succulent meat and the melon was a pairing I would never have considered and works in beautiful harmony lifting the dish to a lighter level. Gorgeous.




The first dessert course was eucalyptus ice-cream with shiso, avocado and lime. I felt full after the courses above but this alone cleared the way (how does your tummy do that?) for dessert to follow. Light, perfectly balanced, visually stunning. Utterly superb. Yum yum.


Eucalyptus ice-cream with shiso, avocado and lime

The final course was for me the absolute highlight. Vanilla, caramel, liquorice, dried and caramelised black olives. An odd sounding dish but one I had high hopes for with the salty sweet combinations going on (and being a complete liquorice addict)...indescribably delicious. Not a scrap was left. If you're not into salty sweet combinations then this one won't be for you but it's worth a try anyway with an open mind. Not overly sweet, not rich just judged to absolute perfection. The pastry kitchen had stolen my heart. Very very clever.


Vanilla, caramel, liquorice, dried and caramelised black olives

Chocolates and coffee to follow were of course top notch. 


The prices - how they present such outstanding quality at this price point I have no idea -115E each for the menu + wine, water and coffee I think the whole thing came to around 270E or so but low pricing like this is a common thread in Spain. 


Service throughout was impeccable, the tables well spaced with beautiful views over the courtyard. 


A casual happy vibe filled the air and I loved the people watching, the coming and going, dressed up or down - it's a place for everyone to while away a few hours. Yes, I found a couple of the courses too rich, however I can be a bit of a wimp. I highly recommend going here for a visual and taste sensation in a fabulously, relaxed atmosphere. The desserts really did rock my world!


Checking my photos on departure with a happy tummy!





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