Les Cols Olot Spain - The Most Beautiful Farm Food You're Likely to Encounter

Dined 03 April 2011

The architecture of Les Cols is that incredible combination of old and new.  Highly modern additions to a beautifully restored traditional building.  Bespoke furniture, metal, shiny, modern surfaces gleaming, juxtaposed with the view from your table of the chickens outside, being fed by the local farmer.  Les Cols is truly a magnificent setting.

Entrance

The architectural features are everywhere

Heading toward the garden for canapes

On arrival once being shown around this rather overwhelming architectural delight you might be invited to enjoy Cava and canapes in the garden weather dependent.  The weather for us was superb so we did indeed indulge in the garden.  A convivial way to start a lingering lunch.

From garden looking towards renovated old exterior

Fabulous wine cellar

Cava and canapes in the garden

Once seated (on these metal seats, more comfortable than they appear and on wheels as to allow easy access in and out) with the view out to the gardens you will find yourself in a quiet pocket of space.  Les Cols is immaculately considered - each table has space.  Service starts in the same way it ends - faultlessly.

Fabulous bottle of Catalonian red

Bread and olive oils

View of from our table

We decided not to engage in the 15 course tasting menu, rather to derive our own menu from the a la carte options.  Mainly because a couple of these options appealed to us and we wanted to try them.

We selected the artichoke and foie gras, the pumpkin cooked five ways, the truffled eggs with shaved truffles and the slow cooked (11 hours at 70degrees) shoulder of lamb.

The amuse bouche consisted of cod served in paper with dipping sauce.  The cod had a beguilingly soft interior with an almost chewy crust and was sublime.

Cod amuse (gorgeous)

The next amuse were fresh spring peas cooked with black pudding.  Utterly utterly fresh, the sweetest little peas I've ever eaten.  Cooked to perfection with nuggets of black pudding.  Outstanding.

Spring peas and black pudding

The artichoke and foie gras was is it reads.  Smooth textures, rich in taste.  Good not stunning.

Artichoke and foie gras

The truffled eggs were a slight let down in that the truffle flavours were muted and having enjoyed better egg and truffle dishes on this holiday we were slightly disappointed.

Truffle and egg

Pumpkin cooked five ways was superb.  Five different textures as well, really a fabulous dish from the (not so) humble pumpkin.

Pumpkin cooked five ways

The slow cooked shoulder of lamb was for me too lamby.  Yes this might sound like an odd thing to say (particularly coming from a New Zealander) but I found the lamb taste overwhelming.  I'm sure this was due to the long slow cook.  The skin was immaculate, cooked separately I'm sure in order to get the glaze and texture just right.  The meat was melting and gooey and good but I just found the whole thing too rich, too lamby and in retrospect I should have chosen differently as this is not the fault of the dish.  I prefer lighter styles of cooking.  My partner enjoyed it immensely.

Lamb cooked for 11 hours at 70 degrees

My dessert of ice cream sandwich from the nostalgia part of the dessert menu was gorgeous and my partners dish of the chocolate volcano served on slate completely the standout course of the day.  Bitter sweet, texturally complex and truly a dessert of immense skill and forethought.

Pre dessert sorbet - fresh and beautifully composed

Nostalgia - ice cream sandwich

Chocolate volcano - a real stunner

We finished with perfect espresso and the petit fours of anise and the sugar coated donuts were a delight.  This course was offered either in the garden, at your table or at the "long" table which is where we selected to eat it.  Les Cols have fully thought through the dining experience and on summer evenings will serve coffee in the garden.  I love this  considered approach.

The long table for coffee after our meal

The focus here is on the local produce.  Food is executed to the highest possible standards.  You will not find a laboratory here nor the use of the molecular (I'm a bit of molecular fan) but what you will find is exemplary ingredients cooked with utter respect.  This is reason enough to come to Les Cols besides the beautiful environment in which to eat.  A most enjoyable spot.

El Celler de Can Roca - Girona Magic

 Dined 05 April 2011

On arrival at El Celler de Can Roca you can't help but be in a happy head space (other than the fact you're about to have an exquisite dining experience of course!!). The entrance, the architecture of old and new, the landscaping of the courtyard area. It's visually appealing and sets the tone for the meal to follow.

Exterior

We opted for the tasting menu and a bottle of white wine which we allowed the sommelier to select (and ended out costing a mere 20-25 Euros - now THAT doesn't happen too many places outside Spain).

The complementary cava was poured and the amuse bouche commenced - the first of which being the olive tree .... caramelised olives with an anchovy filling hanging from the branches. Salty and sweet, fun to eat an exquisite combination.

Olive Tree

The melon balls to follow were an heady mix of flavour and sensation.  To be picked up and popped whole into one's mouth - an explosion of melon.

Molecular Melon

 Then came the tempura anchovy bones and the crackers sitting on rock with the most sublime salty sweet filling the full effect took a moment or two to hit the mouth.

Anchovy amuse

Crackers - sublime

 The fish with semi popped corn was sweet and textural and the final amuse of truffle brioche served with a separate broth exploded in the mouth with pure truffle hedonistic deliciousness. I'd recommend the broth first not second as advised as this allows you to cleanse your palate then savour the truffle.

Fish with corn

Truffle brioche

On to the menu. Oyster with a cava liquor and apple ginger and spices - I found the oyster to be tasteless however the oyster leaf is what left the impression - more oyster tasting than the mollusk itself. I was disappointed with the actual oyster. 

Oyster with a cava liquor and that amazing oyster leaf

The artichoke, foie gras and truffle oil with shaved truffles were next. The shaved truffles, to be expected at this time of year, were a little tasteless and I found this whole dish very rich and could not eat much more than a bite or 2. However the flavours of the truffled oil were rich and earthy in true truffle style.

Artichoke, foie gras, truffle oil and shaved truffle

The sole with five sauces to represent the Mediterranean was beautifully cooked with superb balance in each sauce. A lovely light dish with intense flavours.  The outstanding sauce is pictured second from bottom and is made from a local citrus fruit.  Fresh, acidic, sweet, balanced and with the fish was totally incredible.

Sole with five sauces to represent the Mediterranean

The cod with potato gnocchi - eech this one didn't appeal to me at all. I found the cod pot au feu lacking flavour and the macaroni cake heavy. In fact this whole dish was not worth filling up on so I left almost all of it in order to enjoy dessert.  I imagine this is a dish that would evoke nostalgia and childhood memories from a  traditional dish updated and taken to a new level - it was indeed beautifully constructed on the plate however too heavy for me.  Not having Spanish culinary memories to draw upon I can only comment as it tasted.

The Iberian suckling pig with melon was a glorious visual treat and superb to eat. Perfect skin, succulent meat and the melon was a pairing I would never have considered and works in beautiful harmony lifting the dish to a lighter level. Gorgeous.

The first dessert course was eucalyptus ice-cream with shiso, avocado and lime. I felt full after the courses above but this alone cleared the way (how does your tummy do that?) for dessert to follow. Light, perfectly balanced, visually stunning. Utterly superb. Yum yum.

Eucalyptus ice-cream with shiso, avocado and lime

The final course was for me the absolute highlight. Vanilla, caramel, liquorice, dried and caramelised black olives. An odd sounding dish but one I had high hopes for with the salty sweet combinations going on (and being a complete liquorice addict)...indescribably delicious. Not a scrap was left. If you're not into salty sweet combinations then this one won't be for you but it's worth a try anyway with an open mind. Not overly sweet, not rich just judged to absolute perfection. The pastry kitchen had stolen my heart. Very very clever.

Vanilla, caramel, liquorice, dried and caramelised black olives

Chocolates and coffee to follow were of course top notch. 


The prices - how they present such outstanding quality at this price point I have no idea -115E each for the menu + wine, water and coffee I think the whole thing came to around 270E or so but low pricing like this is a common thread in Spain. 


Service throughout was impeccable, the tables well spaced with beautiful views over the courtyard. 


A casual happy vibe filled the air and I loved the people watching, the coming and going, dressed up or down - it's a place for everyone to while away a few hours. Yes, I found a couple of the courses too rich, however I can be a bit of a wimp. I highly recommend going here for a visual and taste sensation in a fabulously, relaxed atmosphere. The desserts really did rock my world!

Checking my photos on departure with a happy tummy!

Hotel Iturregi - The Sound of Silence

We have recently returned from a blissful 5 night stay at Hotel Iturregi. We had booked the Suite Iturregi however they put us into Suite Getaria without additional charge which was a wonderful gesture.

I went by reviews alone as while the photos looked OK on the Iturregi site I had the feeling they didn't due full justice so went with the reviews....and I was right. The exterior shots for example can make this place look outdated. Iturregi is set behind electric gates in the most beautifully landscaped gardens, the land overlooks the Atlantic Ocean in the distance and honestly you can hear a pin drop - it's quiet (so quiet in fact our ears were actually ringing being so unused to no noise). Anyway I digress, the common areas are sublime. Modern, comfortable, top quality fabrics and furnishings. The outdoor common area overlooking the beautiful grounds is beautifully thought out with lovely areas to sit and enjoy. The swimming pool (which was too cold to use) is set behind the old rock wall of the original structure....it's again a superbly landscaped feature.

There's a fabulous run along the coastal sea wall with a great footpath from Getaria to the next beach Zarautz ...to the end of that beach and back. We parked in Getaria and ran from there. Including up to the lighthouse you've got a great 11-12km run.

Breakfasts each day were a treat. A simple selection of high quality local products including Iberico Bellota...need I say more??

The Suite Getaria has an amazing view over towards Getaria, the lighthouse and Atlantic Ocean. Decorated in cool grey with a traditional/contemporary twist it's really a beautiful room in which to hang out. As with the common areas everything screams understated quality. The bathroom is stunning but it's really difficult to get a good shot due to the angles - hence the lack of bathroom photos.

The service is faultless. Staff recommended good day trips and made restaurant bookings following up and just doing everything that defines that perfect place. The room service menu is small and perfect. We ended out using it a bit as many restaurants in Getaria were still closed due to the season and we went into San Sebastian and Bilbao for some exquisite lunches so room service and a bottle of wine from their small, quality and well priced wine list was the best way for us to wind down the day. We had unseasonably warm weather and I can honestly say sitting on the balcony of our suite, gazing out at the sea and lighthouses in the distance, being enchanted by the night sky with absolute quiet and enjoying a bottle of superb Ribera Del Duero was simply magical.

Iturregi has high standards and meets each and every one of them. This is a place of quality and refinement and we certainly plan on returning. Thank you to the owners, to Susanna the manager and her team for the most wonderful of stays

Outside common courtyard area

Gardens

Pool

In season there would be cushioning on the recliners

Getaria Suite

Getaria Suite (and cute porthole window)

Lovely touches in the room

Bathroom which was gorgous but difficult to get a photo.
Beautiful bath with another porthole window, amazing toilet and shower.

View from Getaria Suite

Sunset view from Getaria Suite

Azurmendi Restaurant - Basque Perfection

Dined 31 March 2011

I read about Azurmendi some time ago and knew I needed to go - there was just something about this place. Lucky for us we travel a lot so I could fit it into this trip of Spain ....and it really was fabulous. When I first read up on Azurmendi it had 1 star and now it has 2 however this is NOT the reason we loved our experience here. The food is amazing. Every sense is catered for.

The building itself is fabulous but then again most modern restaurants in Spain have the same incredible architecture going on. We were welcomed into the dining area in the typical generous style of the region, chose the Menu Geroka and a wonderful (and well priced) bottle of Valbuena Ribera Del Duero 2000 which was decanted and glorious.

Exterior

Yummy wine

OK to kick off... the truffled egg yolk cooked inside out. Molten egg yolk, rich truffle flavour. I'm not sure dishes get too much better than this.

Truffled egg yolk cooked inside out

Oxtail raviolis with their own sticky broth - delicious and meltingly tender with a rich jus, perfectly balanced and portioned.

Oxtail raviolis with their own sticky broth

Oyster with gel of the sea - now the theatre begins. A perfect oyster nestled in sea gel, the surrounds on to which the aromas are poured. The oyster was impeccible barely having sniffed the heat - the fragrance captured the essence of the coast and the result was seafood perfection.

Oyster with gel of the sea

The Garden - oh the garden. And what a garden it was. Beautiful to look at, compelling to eat. Digging potatoes were never so much fun. These beautiful miniature vegetables were imbedded in a "soil" of beetroot with a mousse (and forgive me I'm not sure what the mousse was now, possibly red pepper, but it tasted divine).

The garden

Quail breast cooked at low temperature was the next dish. Perfectly cooked just to pink, resting on a rich sauce and cauliflower puree. The gold painted corn added the most amazing textural contrast - an incredible dish.

Quail breast cooked at low temperature

Home made black pudding with red kidney bean stock. It reads like a heavy dish but it's beautifully constructed supremely light. The black pudding balls were nestled in the red kidney bean stock which was a smooth silky sauce bringing the onion texture surrounding the dish and the black pudding together.

Black pudding and red kidney bean stock

Now to The Reef...my favourite dish of all. Perfect on the plate. An intricate selection of fish, shellfish, tempura samphire (acting as the coral) in a bisque. Cooked to absolute perfection and the whole combination completely intoxicating.

The reef without bisque

And with bisque

Chrystallised dewlap...I simply cannot remember what meat the dewlap was. It tasted like pork but whatever it was it was unctuous and heavenly but the most memorable component of this dish was the single Sichuan blossom. We were advised to eat this at the end and .... well lets just say it makes you really appreciate all that nature has to give. Such a tiny bud yet .... well anyway.

Chrystallised dewlap

Now to dessert - moss on the wall was again theatrically brilliant. "Moss" standing vertical and presented in front of you somehow clinging to it's slate tile presentation plate. Digging down reveals goey yummy stuff (pardon my Kiwi!) that tasted incredible but I don't recall now what it was, with dried cake pieces (do not be fooled by these, they're the most superb cake dehydrated to an inch of their lives leaving not dryness but intense taste and texture in their wake). Another unfaultable dish.

Moss on the wall (clings to a slate tile upright)

Finally passionfruit and chocolate. A passionfruit icecream served in a shot glass with bitter sweet dark chocolate alongside chocolate coated passionfruit liquid (the liquid being suspended in the hard chocolate) with again some "dried cake" (remember don't be misled by this term, the effect is genius).

Passionfruit and chocolate

Oh yeah finally finally the minted sheeps milk etc etc, I am not sure what else came with this one. Sheeps milk isn't something I would generally go for, however this was not in the slightest sheepy and the mint edge allowed this course to be more digestive than anything.

Rounding off with chocolate coated nuts and perfect espresso.

Service throughout was impeccable. We were treated to a tour of the main banquet hall, kitchen and laboratory and the end. I actually ate (almost) everything on my plate which I've never ever managed to do before or since - serving sizes were completely spot on.

Kitchen

I'm planning to go back next year for my birthday that's how much I loved this place. Every detail was considered. Textures, flavours, salt, sweet, aromas. Sublime!!

**If you are using a Garmin GPS - and coming in from Bilbao turn right at the main roundabout then right across the smaller bridge. The GPS knew where Azurmendi was but not how to get us across the motorway and in the end a helpful local showed us the way.