Hotel Val de Neu, Baquiera Beret, Aran Valley, Pyrenees, Spain
As we were passing through Zurich customs on our way to
Barcelona the agent asked us what were our intentions in Spain….to which we
replied “skiing”. She looked at us with
complete disbelief that anyone would consider transiting Switzerland for Spain
in order to partake in this most civilised of sports.
The drive to the Aran Valley located in the Pyrenees is an
easy 3-4 hours from Barcelona airport. Closer
still is Toulouse airport by the way.
Once within the valley we drove through beautiful stone
villages before arriving at Baquiera. I
had tried in vain to study this part of the world……there seems to be very
little information available on the internet so I really had no idea what to
expect. It’s always enchanting to be
captivated with delight and this is how I felt about this whole area. It is a beautiful valley full of charming villages,
which are in turn full of the most fabulous restaurants, and tapas bars one
could imagine. It is rare to hear a
language other than Spanish spoken which makes me realise what I had suspected
is true – the Spanish keep the best bits to themselves.
Hotel Val de Neu’s management were willing to assist me from
my very first email to book – obviously a sign of a well run place and this is
indeed that. The décor is sublime,
perfect for a ski hotel done in a modern ski lodge style that is one of the
things about newer ski hotels I simply adore.
The open fire in the main lounge area is quite something and a drawing
card to sit in the evenings with a wine or 2.
Access to the ski areas is simple, a wee stroll under cover
to the lift, which takes you down to the ski room, then back up the lift to the
gondola and viola, you’re in the ski area.
It’s a well organised place and I didn’t expect that considering how
little I could find out about it….and also very popular with – yes you guessed
it – Spanish people who know that they are better off staying within their own
beautiful country than travel to the expensive and not necessarily better ski
areas of France just over the way.
We had the most sublime time in this beautiful hotel
situation in this magnificent sleepy valley. Days started slowly with a magnificent array
of quality breads, hams (including iberico bellota) coffee, juices or whatever
floated the boat. Skiing was fun, hey
I’m a late starter with skiing so am just getting over the beginner stage but
love it. Baquiera was perfect for me and
the conditions warm and cloudless. Lots
of snow makers mean there’s always good quality snow even though we had
unseasonably warm conditions. Lunches
were a highlight. Every day we headed
out in the car to Arties (down the valley a wee way) to eat tapas and drink
wine at Urtau. An institution it seems,
full to bust each day. Cheap,
extraordinary quality and an atmosphere to match.
Yes time seems to stand still here and to venture out to
Casa Rufus in Salardu (a very easy 15 minute drive down the hill from Baquiera)
is simply an honour. We were treated to
the most gorgeous venison local to the region and in season with oh even typing
this makes me salivate….baked potato which when cut oozed potato cream from
heaven. We’ve eaten at some of the
world’s best but this dish has been stamped in our minds forever. I don’t even want to know what was in that
spud… the calories would probably make me leave half but I couldn’t stop. I used the ooze as a sauce and oh gosh … I’ve
got to stop because I’m starting to dribble.
Entrée was a shared plate of the tiniest broad beans served with home
smoked duck breast and onion marmalade.
A delicious combination. A
dessert of mascarpone ice-cream (helato) with raspberry sauce and all washed
down with a great big stonking Ribera del Duero we were replete and slept like
logs. There is no better way to end the
day !
I’ve already made plans to return to Baquiera, staying at
Hotel Val de Neu and we will be returning to our favourites of Urtau, Casa
Rufus and Casa Turnay (for their grilled rabbit and quail served with the most
garlicy aioli – stunning). Oh yes and to
ski of course!!
